Memories of Libya 1956 to 1959

Contributed by Trevor STUBBERFIELD 52A

Libyan Extras Continued.

Photos by David Croton R.E.M.E.

Views of Tripoli and the surrounding district.

One of the local ‘sights to see’ could be found in the mountain area of Garian to the West of Tripoli. Usually the main picture was the one that appeared in reports and searches, but there were others in additional buildings that didn’t get quite the same coverage. The story is told below.

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The Garian Lady. As mentioned earlier in these memories, many internet searches for illustrations of these murals proved they were almost impossible to find. The original murals were to be found in buildings at the top of the Garian Pass and had been painted by Clifford Saber, an American war correspondent serving as a volunteer ambulance driver with the 8th Army. We are lucky that David found these in his collection. The variable quality of the main painting was caused by an open doorway opposite the wall which washed out some of the detail. There is some modern graffiti hailing Nasser as the champion of the Arabs and this would most probably have been added after the Suez operation. The signature of the artist, Clifford Saber, appears in the top left corner of the map. The second and third murals probably owe a lot to Scheherazade and the wishful thinking of a man away from home for a long time, the artist.

The Lady of Garian, the definitive story.

Continuing to search the internet for a clearer picture I came across the photo below. It was found in the war diaries of the artist, Clifford Saber, an American war correspondent who served as a volunteer ambulance driver with the 8th Army throughout the desert campaign. The whys and wherefores which led to him painting the murals are recorded in his personal diaries. He recorded his experiences in both word and paintings which were done during his adventures. There are many other personal accounts of life throughout the campaign but Clifford Saber’s account is told from a unique position, that of a non-combatant experiencing war close up whilst serving his fellow men, and facing the same dangers that they were facing. In his account he mentions the meetings he had with many of the British units that he came into contact with. The story is quite remarkable and a highly recommended read for anybody interested in the desert campaign, seen from a different angle.

The source of the photo and information is acknowledged as the web site, which can be accessed from the following link.

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Tripoli Scenes

Ristoro’s Snack Bar & Grill was a favourite watering hole. Although the specialities were English fare there was also a full Italian menu and a bowl of spaghetti was often the preparation for a plate of egg and chips.

To dine at Ristoro’s snack bar and grill, or shop at the N.A.A.F.I, we needed real local currency.

A ten piastres note in the currency used during the reign of King Idris.

Coinage, Piastres and Millimes.

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Tripoli City from the air.

Below is Piccolo Capri the services beach club, west of Tripoli on the road to Sabratha. The road ran between the club and the villas pictured to the rear. Most of the residences were rented by American service personnel who were based at Wheelus Field, the air base that was built on the old North African grand prix motor racing circuit at Mellaha.

Information added 1st March 2014.

Photos added of the 1957 Wheelus Air Base air show.

So ends the tale of my three year spell in Tripoli, Libya. The final entry records the flights made to get me there and back home safely. Details can be accessed from the links below:

Blackbushe, Surrey, U.K. to Idris Airport, Tripoli, Libya:

Idris Airport, Tripoli, Libya to Gatwick (London) U.K.

The start of commercial Air Trooping from Blackbushe:

First Published: 1st June 2008.

Layout Revised and Updated: 15th October 2017.

Latest Update: 1st June 2018.

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Libyan Extras Continued.