Memories of Libya 1956 to 1959

Contributed by Trevor STUBBERFIELD 52A

Libyan Extras Continued.

Photos by David Croton R.E.M.E.

LAD REME 38 Coy RASC

3 Day Recreational Scheme. To keep the troops happy and minds occupied, short exercises were arranged where a few vehicles would set off to visit areas where you would not normally get a chance to visit. These photos were taken on a 3 day trip to Ben Ulid and the mountains in the region. Obviously it was a photo opportunity for the new fangled Scammell Recovery 6x6 which we had recently taken on strength. However, the Scammell had a surprise of it’s own to deliver. Back at base, as it drove into the LAD there was a very loud bang, sounds of compressed air escaping and dust and debris flying everywhere. Grinding to a stop the driver was very surprised to see one of his rear wheels, still attached to the brake drum, carry on past his cab and go bowling down the LAD forecourt. Luckily it came to rest without doing any damage. Evidently Pickfords, who used a similar vehicle for heavy haulage in the UK, had experienced the same situation. Their fix was to fabricate a large spanner with a handle about 10ft long with which to apply sufficient torque to hold the bearing nut in place. Very primitive but that’s the solution we adopted until the backroom boys came up with a more secure method of locking the nut in place.

The Garian Lady. As mentioned earlier in these memories, many internet searches for illustrations of these murals proved they were almost impossible to find. The original murals were to be found in buildings at the top of the Garian Pass and had been painted by Clifford Saber, an American war correspondent serving as a volunteer ambulance driver with the 8th Army. We are lucky that David found these in his collection. The variable quality of the main painting was caused by an open doorway opposite the wall which washed out some of the detail. There is some modern graffiti hailing Nasser as the champion of the Arabs and this would most probably have been added after the Suez operation. The signature of the artist, Clifford Saber, appears in the top left corner of the map. The second and third murals probably owe a lot to Scheherazade and the wishful thinking of a man away from home for a long time, the artist.

The Lady of Garian, the definitive story.

Continuing to search the internet for a clearer picture I came across the photo below. It was found in the war diaries of the artist, Clifford Saber, an American war correspondent who served as a volunteer ambulance driver with the 8th Army throughout the desert campaign. The whys and wherefores which led to him painting the murals are recorded in his personal diaries. He recorded his experiences in both word and paintings which were done during his adventures. There are many other personal accounts of life throughout the campaign but Clifford Saber’s account is told from a unique position, that of a non-combatant experiencing war close up whilst serving his fellow men, and facing the same dangers that they were facing. In his account he mentions the meetings he had with many of the British units that he came into contact with. The story is quite remarkable and a highly recommended read for anybody interested in the desert campaign, seen from a different angle.

The source of the photo and information is acknowledged as the web site, which can be accessed from the following link.

Tripoli Scenes

Ristoro’s Restaurant was a favourite watering hole. Although the specialities were English fare there was also a full Italian menu and a bowl of spaghetti was often the preparation for a plate of egg and chips.

Tripoli City from the air.

Below is Piccolo Capri the services beach club, west of Tripoli on the road to Sabratha. The road ran between the club and the villas pictured to the rear. Most of the residences were rented by American service personnel who were based at Wheelus Field, the air base that was built on the old North African grand prix motor racing circuit at Mellaha.

So ends the tale of my three year spell in Tripoli, Libya. The final entry records the flights made to get me there and back home safely. Details can be accessed from the links below:

Blackbushe, Surrey, U.K. to Idris Airport, Tripoli, Libya:

Idris Airport, Tripoli, Libya to Gatwick (London) U.K.

First Published: 1st June 2008

Latest Update: 21st June 2010

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